The aroma alone tells a story.
Sweet apples simmering for hours, transforming into the rich, dark spread that has sustained Appalachian families for generations.
Now, that story is being preserved and celebrated through a new exhibit series at East Tennessee State University’s Archives of Appalachia.
“Appalachian Foodways: Apple Butter” marks the first installment in a series exploring the deep connections between food, culture and identity in the region. Curated by Sandy Laws, the exhibit draws on historical and contemporary films, oral histories and photographs to illuminate the long-standing tradition of making apple butter.
More than a recipe
Foodways – the cultural, social and economic connections people forge through food – reveal far more than what’s on the table. They explore the “why” behind what we eat, uncovering the historical and cultural significance that links people to place.
In Appalachia, few traditions embody this connection more completely than making apple butter.
The process itself was often a community affair. Families would gather around massive copper kettles, taking turns stirring the bubbling mixture with long wooden paddles.
“These materials highlight the diverse people and cultures that have formed, and been formed by, the region over time,” said Laws.
Preserving Appalachian identity
The exhibit showcases how apple butter-making represents more than food preservation.
It’s cultural preservation.
The tradition connected families to the land, to the seasons and to each other. It required knowledge passed down through generations: when to pick the apples, how to tend the fire, how long to stir and when the butter had reached just the right consistency.
A living tradition
What makes this exhibit particularly powerful is its recognition that Appalachian foodways aren’t frozen in the past. While methods may have evolved from massive outdoor kettles to modern stoves, the tradition continues. Families still gather in autumn to make apple butter, still share jars with neighbors and still pass down recipes and techniques to the next generation.
Experience the exhibit
The exhibit is housed within the Archives of Appalachia. The archives contain an unparalleled collection of materials documenting regional life, from oral histories and field recordings to photographs and documents spanning more than a century.
The public is welcome to peruse this and many other digital collections. Information on planning a physical visit is available here.
As the flagship university of Appalachia, ETSU is uniquely positioned to preserve and share these stories.
